¨OK this is relatively calm water... try to mount your board´´, says flordia in an accent from quebec, as the six foot waves are crashing into my body at intervals which allow for a gasp of breath as my head surfaces inbetween. mounting the board my body flies perpendicular up the waves and spills on the other side. paddling as fast as one can the wave consumes you from behind and pulls you to the crest... forcing the nose of the board down and shifting your weight forward till you feel it grab you... iowa caught her first wave... steady, find your center... pushing up with your arms ones feet come forward and you are now surfing.
after getting jackknifed in the neck with a 7ft fiberglass board i learned really quickly how dangerous the sport truely is. keep my board behind me and attack the wave (gracias switzerland). salt water burns.....
No comments:
Post a Comment